Adromischus belongs to a genus of flowering plants. They are easy propagated leaf succulents from the family Crassulaceae, which are endemic to southern Africa. The name originates from the ancient Greek adros (= thick) and mischos (= stem).
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance houseplant, adromischus is perfect. This plant has been around for centuries and was once considered sacred by the Greeks and Romans. It’s ideal for people who live in apartments or homes with little to no natural light because it doesn’t need much sunlight to survive! Learn more about this plant below:
This plant has small, subtle flowers and requires little care to stay healthy! Here are some tips on how to keep your plant happy and healthy:
1) Keep the soil moist but not wet;
2) Give it bright light or indirect sunlight;
3) Cut off dead leaves as they appear;
4) Fertilize once every two months with liquid fertilizer diluted half strength.
They are cold hardy, so there’s no need to worry about them suffering in the winter months!
They have their origins in South Africa. They are part of the Crassulaceae family, which includes many succulent species.
This plant comes from the succulent family, which is made up of about 40 genera and 600 species. This genus was once part of the crassulaceae family but has since been separated into its own because it shares many features with cacti (which are also in the succulent group) such as fleshy, thick leaves.
The species are grouped into 5 parts. They share certain qualities and relationships.
Part 1 (Adromischus).
Flowers of part 1. species (Adromischus filicaulis).
Flowers are brilliant green, tubular, and with short, broad, triangular, recurved lobes. Anthers extend from the flower tube. Mainly indigenous to the western, winter-rainfall areas of South Africa. They are:
- Adromischus alstonii.
- Adromischus hemisphaericus.
- Adromischus roaneanus.
- Adromischus liebenbergii.
- Adromischus bicolor.
- Adromischus filicaulis – Adromischus filicaulis subsp. marlothii.
- Adromischus montium – klinghardtii.
- Adromischus subdistichus.
Part 2 (Boreali)
Grooved, tubular flowers, with ovate-triangular, recurved lobes that are swollen on the margins. Anthers extend from the flower tubes. Native to the dry, summer-rainfall interior of Southern Africa. They are:
Part 3 (Brevipedunculati).
Grooved, funnel-shaped flowers with acuminate-triangular, spreading lobes widely, born upon long stalks. Inflorescence branched. Generally spreading out or stoloniferous plants. They consist of:
- Adromischus caryophyllaceus.
- Adromischus fallax.
- Adromischus humilis.
- Adromischus phillipsiae.
- Adromischus nanus.
- Adromischus diabolicus.
Part 4 (Incisilobati)
Flowers of part 4 species (Adromischus triflorus).
Tubular flowers with extended lanceolate-triangular lobes. Plants with compact, upright, short stems. They are:
- Adromischus maximus.
- Adromischus sphenophyllus.
- Adromischus maculatus.
- Adromischus inamoenus.
- Adromischus triflorus.
- Adromischus mammilaris.
- Adromischus halesowensis.
Part 5 (Longipedunculati)
Flowers of part 5 species (Adromischus marianae).
Pale or pubescent inflorescence with lengthened lanceolate-triangular lobes. They consist of:
- Adromischus cooperi.
- Adromischus cristatus.
- Adromischus cristatus clavifolius.
- Adromischus cristatus mzimvubuensis.
- Adromischus cristatus schonlandii.
- Adromischus cristatus zeyheri.
- Adromischus leucophyllus.
- Adromischus marianae.
- Adromischus marianae immaculatus.
- Adromischus marianae herrei.
So-called Adromischus oviforme specimens, which do not in fact exist, are typically Adromischus filicaulis subsp. Marlothii.
Caring For and Growing Adromischus
A popular little plant, preferably fit for pot culture SO has appeal amongst collectors and lovers most are simple to grow however most of the beauties can really be challenging.
A lot of succulents lovers will have by now come across “The Plovers Egg Plant”. Adromischus cooperi appears great, the leaves have charming marks and are extremely different from other succulents. They can be easily grown & propagated, and an excellent beginner’s plant.
To a more recent succulent collectors, this plant is perfectly unique and different from other succulents. My first likewise was Adromischus cooperi. After then, I met and was able to know Alec Salzer, a senior and longtime collector, unfortunately, he had died now.
He had more than 40 different types and subspecies. I believe owing to a number of journeys to South Africa and returning with big pockets totally filled with various leaves and cuttings.
Till today, I can say no other collection had such a variety as Alec’s had in his three little confined glasshouses in a little yard in Camberwell.
Who knows maybe the collection of Alec’s Adromischus was passed down to someone? But now vanished into somebody’s collection & later lost to the public. Let me share a thought, which I believe is very important, with you.
If you have some uncommon types or a typical or fascinating version of unique plants, share it immediately with an individual who has the capability to grow and reproduce that unique plant.
People who wish to hide and become the only person with that unique something are a bit self-centered and short-sighted. With just one disaster, maybe a hot day in the polyhouse without any shade or maybe a flood or an even unfortunate rot to get your one & only treasure while you’re not looking.
I had an experience like this when a once in a 100-year flood 200 ml of rain in just about 20 hours saw me lose a poly home to water of about 50 cm, they were busy floating out the door. That day, I lost a couple of special plants and a big part of my entire crop.
Fortunately, 6 months after, I recovered many of the unique plants back thanks to a friend I had previously shared those plants with.
Adromischus are delightful succulents that have actually held my attention for a very long time due to the fact that they are extremely difficult to find. An expert collection of this plant with their numerous and leafy forms, colors, textures, and spots are really gratifying when seen over a yearly cycle.
They are a perfect source of wonders and beauties, in some cases difficult. Their sizes are ideal for pot culture, they do effectively in a well-lit glasshouse window sill where there is a lot of light.
This is an easy-to-grow succulent that looks beautiful, whether as part of your indoor or outdoor landscaping. It’s great for containers on decks and patios – just be sure not to overwater them!
Adromischus should be propagated by seed or cutting. Seeds can take a very long time to germinate, so it is more common to propagate them with cuttings.
They adhere to a stem-cutting propagation method. This means that the plant will produce new roots from where it was cut off, as long as there is still some green on the leaves or stems of the plant.
First, you should take cuttings during summertime when the plant produces its new shoots. Be sure to use a sterile knife or blade when you cut it so as not to introduce any contamination into the plant. Remove all of the bottom leaves from your plant’s stem cutting and dip it in some rooting hormone powder before placing it in a pot filled with perlite, sand, peat moss mixture.
General Care Information
Most adromischus require bright, indirect light. The exception would be the ‘Coccineum’ which requires a high amount of light and warmth to thrive.
They do not handle direct sunlight well as this can cause them to develop sunburn on their leaves or stems.
They also grow well with sun exposure, but not too much direct sunlight. Avoid placing them where they are exposed to the afternoon sun as it can burn their leaves and scorch their stems.
They need well-draining soil. Their leaves will rot if they stay wet for too long. They prefer to be in small pots that allow them room for their extensive root systems, but not so large that the roots are crowded and water sits around its base. A cactus mix or other succulent potting mixture is recommended. They need a sunny window to grow well, and direct sunlight is best for their health.
They are low maintenance, so they need watering when the soil dries out. They can survive without water for a few weeks but will grow better with constant moisture in the summer months and require less water in winter.
They must be watered until the excess runs out of their bottom holes. If you see water collecting in the saucer, wait until it dries up before watering them again.
They won’t need water if they are kept on a windowsill since outdoor summer heat will take care of this for you. If your plant is inside all year round, then you must provide extra water to keep it healthy.
They can survive without water for a few weeks but will grow better with constant moisture in the summer months and require less water in winter.
Adromischus have low nutrient requirements and are sensitive to over-fertilizing. A diluted liquid fertilizer, with a ratio of about ½-¾ strength, is sufficient as long as it has been formulated for succulents. Do not use any type of plant food that contains micronutrients such as copper sulfate or zinc phosphate since they do not tolerate these minerals very well.
They can be grown in a variety of indoor environments, but generally prefer warmer temperatures. In the summertime when there is plenty of sunlight and heat, it may be necessary to water more frequently than usual, whereas they will need less frequent watering during the winter months when days are shorter and cooler.
The average household room temperature is perfectly fine for these plants and if the leaves begin to turn red, it’s a sign that they are not receiving enough light.
The temperature range is between 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit and can tolerate a minimum temperature of 40 degrees.
They cannot survive in temperatures below 50 degrees for extended periods as it will cause the leaves to die and turn black.
They prefer warmer temperatures than cacti, with the optimal range between 60 – 90 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 32 Celsius). It’s important not to let your plant dry out completely though, so watering is important. They need to have moist, well-draining soil at all times but should be watered weekly when they are in full growth and every two weeks during their dormant period.
They are tolerant of dry air conditions but they will do better with higher humidity. It is a good idea to mist them once or twice per week, depending on the temperature and relative humidity (RH) of your growing space.
The plant needs an optimum relative humidity of 40-70%. A cool mist vaporizer will raise the humidity in a small area.
In winter, when the air is dry and cold indoors, you should consider placing your plant on a tray filled with pebbles or gravel that contains water to increase humidity. Note: Be sure not to overwater this plant because it does not like wet roots.
A humidifier can also be used to raise and control the humidity level.
Pruning is necessary in order to encourage new growth. When the plant becomes too big, you should pinch off one-third of the canes or stems using sharp pruning shears or a knife. The best time for this task is early in spring after winter dormancy has ended and before any flowers have developed. This will stimulate lush new growth.
When to repot
They do best when the potting mix is allowed to dry out between waterings. If you are growing them in a container, repot every year or two so that they have fresh soil again.
They do not need to be repotted very often, only when the roots become suffocating in their pot and growing media. The best time for this task is early spring after dormancy has ended and before any flowers have developed. Wait until the plant is dry to move it into a new container that offers fresh soil and drainage holes.
Water the plant well before repotting, but do not water it again until you see new growth appear above ground after a few weeks have passed since replanting.
Most species of these plants are dormant in the winter. This means that they require less water and light during this time to prevent leaf drops. Keep soil moist but not soggy, and give them plenty of indirect sunlight. Many members of the Crassulaceae family will go deciduous before dormancy time if given enough light. If you don’t want to lose your leaves, keep them in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight during this time.
Flowers & Fragrance
These plants produce small flowers that range from white to pink and purple. Their fragrance is often described as a combination of apples, oranges, grapefruit, and pineapple.
They are grown for their beautiful foliage coloration along with the occasional production of small blooms which attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
They are a slow-growing plant. The most common variety, A. cristatus, doesn’t grow more than about three inches per year and can take four or five years to reach its full size of six to eight inches tall. Because the plants only have two sets of leaves during their lifetime, regular repotting is not needed.
Although not toxic, They are considered to be a poisonous plant due to the presence of oxalates. Oxalic acids and oxalates are found in many plants as well as some animals such as insects, amphibians, fish, and birds. They can cause stomach irritation or even kidney stones if large amounts of them are ingested.
USDA Hardiness Zones
This plant thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones: -11 to 11.
Pests and diseases
Adromischus is a resilient plant that has few problems – it’s disease and pest-resistant. It can be affected by mealybugs, but they’re easy to spot due to the white cottony substance on its leaves. As you probably know from growing succulents in general, these pests are very contagious so if spotted, you should remove all infested parts of the plant and treat them with an insecticide.
They are also susceptible to rot if overwatered, so make sure not to do that. Use a cactus mix soil when growing this variety indoors or outdoors in mild climates (USDA Hardiness Zones 11-12). It’s also a good idea to place it outdoors in the summer and bring it indoors when temperatures drop.
The majority of the insect issues appear to vanish over the severest part of summertime. As it begins to cool again, we perform another two complete sprays over the nursery. The majority of you will know that these bugs are more drawn into particular plants, watch on these ones for more infestation
Aphids do not appear to cause much of an issue on our succulents particularly if they’re kept dry a bit. Occasional groups can be seen gathering on the more lush flower heads of our succulent plants these can be handled with soapy water pyrethium or just general insecticides we have sometimes just removed the flower heads which has solved the problem.
Another rather perilous pest which I notice is ending up being more widespread and has actually remained in the Monbulk location for a long time is the Vine Weevil, this is a little dark long-legged horrible looking beetle that is hardly 5 mm long, with a long snout. Have you seen any scalloped edged succulents in the garden? I have actually seen big Aeoniums Each Black Prince with terribly eaten and scalloped leaves.
These beetles are seen on the plants in the evening and hide close to the ground in the leaf litter during the day. Keep the base of your plants clean and clean, and look under your pots for hiding insects if you see the tell-tale eaten leaves.
The real issue with this weevil is it lays eggs all day, when they hatch the larvae head to the root o0f your succulents and eat them all. And then continue to eat the internal stems of your succulents leaving a core of sawdust behind, and within a short time, the plant falls off due to the loss of stem strength or the plant dies outrightly.
It’s almost impossible to get these larvae, however, cutting back your plants, then remove the affected area, re-root them, and dispose of the trimmings and the old soils.